carbonation drops

I've mentioned before that I've had trouble getting standard levels of carbonation in my bottles since moving to Hawaii. Some bottles come out flat, and others are so over-carbonated that the whole beer foams out of the bottle when you pry off the crown. One theory I've developed, as a possible reason for this irregular carbonation, is that the bottles end up with varying levels of priming sugars. Typically, I'll melt some priming sugar in with a cup or two of water, and add that to the carboy immediately before bottling. I'm wondering if the that sugar doesn't mix in evenly with the unbottled beer. Perhaps it sinks to the bottom of the carboy and then gets sucked out by the syphon, so that the first several bottles get more of the sugar than the last few bottles.

In order to test this theory, I've bottle my last two batches using carbonation drops for the priming. The way they work is you add one drop per 12 oz bottle, or two drops for a bottle 22 oz or bigger. The amount of sugar per bottle should be pretty even, using this system. And so far it seems to be playing out. I've been drinking bottles from the first batch, and so far they've all been perfectly carbonated.

The downside is that the carbonation drops end up costing around 10X more than just buying sugar and mixing it in with the whole batch. But in the end that's still just an extra 10 cents a bottle. If I can do away with one more brewing difficulty, 10 cents a bottle is worth it to me.

Brew Your Own Magazine published a story of mine!

I just checked out the Brew Your Own website, and realized they've posted a brewing misadventure of mine. Click here to check it out.

wild yeast infections

I've lived in Hawaii for about a year now, and during that time I've brewed about a dozen beers. Of those dozen beers, at least three started out lovely, and then developed problems after a few months in bottles. The most persistent problem I've had has been extreme overcarbonation, leading to gushing when the bottles are opened, or even reaching levels that cause the bottles to explode. I brewed a few dozen batches of beer back in San Francisco before moving here, and never had this problem there, so I started thinking it must have something to do with the climate in Hawaii.

My thoughts about the cause of this over-carbonation have developed over time. The first beer to over carbonate was my Lilikoi Amber, and the first theory I came up with was the addition of lilikoi juice in secondary fermentation shocked the yeast into temporary inactivity, and then, when the beer had gone into bottles, the yeast recovered from its shock and started fermenting the new lilikoi sugars. For a while I was convinced this was the answer. But then a bottle of a different beer--without lilikoi--exploded.

The next theory I came up with was that the priming sugar I was using--regular old table sugar--was resulting in more vigorous bottle-conditioning than the refined dextrose sugar you buy at the brew shop. And so I switched back to dextrose for a batch... and had the same problem develop.

Another thought was that the warm fermentation temperatures were responsible. A lot of the beers I brew use English style yeasts that prefer fermentation temperatures in the mid 60s. The coldest I've been able to keep my fermenters here has been closer to 72 degrees. And so I decided to try a Belgian yeast known for enjoying fermentation temperatures in the mid 70s. The beer turned out great, but the few bottles I have left are turning into gushers too.

So the over-carbonation problem doesn't result exclusively from using lilikoi juice, or table sugar, or from having yeast-strains that react badly to Hawaii's warm climate. All of those things might be contributing, but the crux of the biscuit is probably something else.

My new theory is one of the first ones presented to me, by my friend Danny (of Deeper Roots brewing). It's also the main theory that shows up in the "trouble-shooting sections" at the back of basic homebrewing books, and it's the theory offered by most of the beer judges who sampled my gusher entry to this year's Longshot Competition. Being that it's the first theory often presented, of course I ignored it until now.

What's the theory: wild yeast.

I brew outside, in the open air, at the back of Palolo Valley. Palolo Valley is a lush place, with lots of rainfall and lots of dense, jungle-like vegetation. The air is thick with life, probably literally.

For many of the beers I've brewed here, I finished the process by hand-ladling the cooled wort from the kettle to the fermenter, and I did this out in the open air. On several occasions I had a breeze kick up during this part of the process. Usually the breezes here are a welcome relief, but when you're out in the open with five gallons of highly fermentable liquid, the feel of the wind blowing over you--and the thought of all the invisible yeast spores it carries--is pretty disheartening.

So, in hopes of addressing this problem, I'm trying to limit my wort's exposure to the breeze. With the last batch I brewed I erected a wind-block (as shown in the picture above), kept the kettle lid on during cooling, and transferred the cooled wort to the fermenter while indoors. Chances are I won't know if it worked until three months after putting the beer in bottles--in the experience I've had here so far, all the beers seemed fine at first, and then started gushing after a few months capped--but if I still have overcarbonation problems, I might try using Campden tablets.

Does anybody else have any other suggestions? Feel free to leave them in the comments section.

learning to love Belgian yeast strains

I've said it before, and I'll say it again: British and Irish ales are my favorite styles of beer. Back in San Francisco I brewed those styles, or American takes on those styles, more than anything else. I've been trying to do them here in Hawaii too, but it hasn't been easy. Most British and Irish ale yeasts prefer cool-fermentation temperatures, ideally around 65 degrees Fahrenheit. The climate in San Francisco (where I lived before moving here) is often perfect for that; the climate in Honolulu... not so much.

I've brewed around nine beers here so far using British Ale yeasts, and the fermentation temperatures have always been over 72 degrees Fahrenheit. Most of the beers have turned out okay--but the fermentations were often violent, with foam-overs and even one spectacular eruption. And the flavors haven't been as clean as what I was getting in San Francisco.

So I'm starting to experiment with Belgian yeasts now. A lot of Belgian strains are happy fermenting above 70 degrees Fahrenheit, and some of them have no problems with temperatures even higher than that. For my first Belgian beer here in Hawaii, I used White Labs 545 Belgian Strong Ale yeast. The label on the vial gives the fermentation temperature range as 70 to 75 degrees, and I think my fermentation managed to remain within that range. I definitely noticed a smoother, less violent fermentation. I'll try to remember to post here about how the final beer turns out.